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3225E drum removal
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Posted
HELP!!! for some reason i can't remove the yellow drum unit on this machine, the fuser, transfer belt assy, developer units and other three drum units are all removed but this one is stuck tight, i've tried everything i can think of but i just can't get the thing out. Anybody have any suggestions?
 
Posts: 34 | Registered: March 04, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Senior Member
Picture of Doedee316
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you are going to have to take the drum drive motor off to get it out. take off the back cover and i think four screws and the motor comes right out. you will probably have to replace the drum coupler and or the drum.

Doedee316
 
Posts: 270 | Registered: January 26, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of Supportech
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Hi, I had one of these drum units stuck, nearly destroyed the drive motor gear box, its two screws that hold the motor in place.
Its caused by electrolitic converstion, corrosion to you & me of two disimiar metals a steel drive shaft & an aluminium drum.
I had to wreck the plastic housing of the drum unit, grab hold of the drum and slowly move it from side to side, it eventualy came out with a few choice words.
Its advisable to change the drum drive linkages then put conductive grease on all the drive shafts, if youve any other models out there they need checking around 70 to 100k before the corrotion sets in, hope this helps.
All the best from the UK
 
Posts: 18 | Location: England | Registered: August 02, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Full Member
Picture of szt001
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The drum shaft has become welded to the motor drive shaft due to the coupling jumping and metal shavings jamming the 2 parts together. Have a new drum unit and motor ass'y ready, then, if you unscrew the drive motor and remove the plastic clip from the front of the drum unit, you can (with some difficulty) wiggle the locating pin out at the rear of the drum. Then you withdraw the whole motor and shaft from the rear of the machien and replace the lot!

The coupling and spring have been modified to prevent this happening again.

Good luck!


I should have left it alone!
 
Posts: 83 | Registered: December 20, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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hey everyone,
thanks a ton for all the great help. Supportech you were dead on. all it took was a few choice words and some major luck but once i got the drive pin out of the drum the motor and shaft all slid out the back. I've got to say i've never seen somthing do anything like this and i hope it dosent become a normal occurance. Once again thanks for all the help.
 
Posts: 34 | Registered: March 04, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Power User
Picture of drewsup
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I got 2 drum motors with the shafts attached sitting right behind me Frown The shafts are actually turned within the drum coupler.. not pretty.


===========================
Think of how stupid the average person is, and realize half of them are stupider than that.
- G. Carlin
 
Posts: 626 | Registered: December 24, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Senior Member
Picture of UKTeam
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szt001 - exactly as I do it! But Ive never seen any metal shavings just the coupling gunked up to the point of seizure. So then a little overnight spray of de-greasing fluid and a metal polish of the motor spindle and its as good as new!
 
Posts: 153 | Location: Norfolk, England, UK | Registered: July 09, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Power User
Picture of blackcat4866
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On a related subject, I was out for light copies only affecting black images. It was intermittent, crossfeed light bands, always lighter at the back. About a year ago this machine had had seized drum units, and I had used conductive grease on the couplers. When I cleaned off the conductive grease, the image quality was restored. I'll be using a drop or two of light oil from now on. No more of that conductive grease.

I just had another seized drum shaft, and think I have a different theory about the cause. On the one that I saw yesterday there was clearly arcing between the drum shaft and motor shaft. I don't exactly know what to do preventatively, but the conductive grease is not the right path.
=^..^=


=^..^=
 
Posts: 826 | Location: Michigan | Registered: April 04, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post



Power User
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In one of the Q&As they came up with a new style spring behind the coupler that is more shiny and seems to work better. I have been replacing both the spring and the coupler at teh same time and they have been working much better.
 
Posts: 708 | Registered: May 19, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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